Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.
This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely shocked.
“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.
It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.
Lena Voss is a tech enthusiast and writer, passionate about unraveling complex topics for curious minds.